Saturday, May 30, 2020

The Steak Ninja. Gimmick? Good to Go?

INSTANT VERDICT SUBJECT TO CHANGE:
The Good: Cheap. Seems to work. 
The Bad: Hard to clean. 
The Verdict: At this price, what do you have to lose?

I like steak. If it were up to me, I'd eat it several times a week. But, good steak is expensive, and steak cheap enough to eat several times a week is better suited for covering the seats in a fine luxury car.

I experimented with a couple of different ways to tenderize a cheaper cut of steak to make it more edible.

Brining was the first. Simply putting a generous coating of kosher salt on both sides of the meat and letting it set did make it more tender. But, it wasn't a huge improvement and it made the meat overly salty in places, even after thoroughly rinsing.

I tried Sous Vide, and while I like the results of that for many things, steak is not one of them. It simply doesn't have the same flavor as a steak seared in cast iron or fast-cooked on a grill.

Finally, the Steak Ninja.

First off, the box contains several words and phrases that I like. Ninja, kick-ass, and meat. But wait, there's more!

When you press this into a piece of meat, those 56 blades penetrate and cut through the muscle fiber. Basically, it gives you a head start in the race to chew your own food. 

The Steak Ninja is a version of a device called a jaccard, which has been around for a while. So, even if you haven't heard of it, it's not exactly innovative. But, it was cheaper than any of the other jaccards that I saw for sale on Amazon. 

The blades are flat and directional. Meaning, you can run the Steak Ninja many times in different directions to make the meat more tender. 

Don't play around with it. The thing is dangerously sharp. Also, make sure you know your target and what's behind it...lol. Most often, I use the Ninja while the meat is still in the foam pack to ensure that it penetrates all the way through. But, you'll want to do this on a cutting board, not a formica countertop. 

Side effects: Thin cuts of meat become thinner. Figure a 3/4" steak becomes 1/2". You'll have to adjust your cooking times accordingly, or buy thicker meat. The last time, I used it on a 1.5" sirloin tip roast and the finished product came off the grill at approximately 1" thick, which was perfect. 

Other side effects: the meat will cook quicker. People say this is because the heat penetrates the meat through the holes, but I think it's because the meat ends up thinner. 

Things I thought would be a problem, but weren't: I figured this would dry the meat out. I've heard for years you're never supposed to use a fork to turn steaks on the grill, because any holes you poke in the meat would allow all the juices to get out. And now, with the Ninja, I'm poking 56 holes at a time in it. That didn't hurt the steaks at all. In fact, if anything, meat prepared with the Ninja comes out juicier than normal. I don't know why, but it's always good. 

Things I didn't consider would be a problem that are:  Cleaning. You have to hold the thing open by hand to get to the blades. The first time I did it, I got an inadvertent blood sugar test in the tips of two of my fingers. You REALLY have to take care to get to the blades. You can lock it closed, but you can't hold it open, so you're grabbing it tightly with one hand and cleaning with the other (I used a nylon bristle brush). 

That aside, all of the steaks that I've done with this have come out way more tender and tasty than they had any business being. I got a chuck shoulder steak (not a Flatiron) and it was tender and juicy. So was the aforementioned sirloin tip roast. Very good texture, with minimal toughness. 

Here are the pros and cons of the Steak Ninja. 

Pros: Easy to use. Cheap. Actually works. Maybe fun, too, if you're a bit sadistic. 

Cons: Thinner steaks. Does take some time to do multiple steaks. Dangerous to clean. 

All in all, if you're wanting to eat steak more, and your budget won't allow, this might be a worthwhile investment. 






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